Wild Activities
Welsh 3000' Mountains
Cycling in Iceland
Derwent Watershed
HS 4a, Alderey Cliff, Derbyshire
The following is an account, in diary form, of a cycling holiday in Iceland in July 2001.
I arrived at Keflavik airport late on Sunday night / Monday morning and spent the early hours in a cold, uncomfortable waiting room of the Flybus company in Reykjavik. Once the hour is more sociable and more people are awake, I will start building the bicycle. It will probably take 2 hours. I think the rest of the day will be spent in Reykjavik, getting supplies and trying to "acclimatise". There is a campsite in the city, so that will hopefully provide a good night's sleep ready for a day of cycling tomorrow.
My trusty steed..!
What a ridiculously tiring day! Despite the lack of sleep, I decided not to stay in Reykjavik. Instead, after spending a lot of time searching for supplies (fuel, food, and a bike lock!) I headed out towards Þingvellir thinking that it was a 35km ride. I miscalculated badly. From Reykjavik to Þingvellir is 50km, and with all the faffing around beforehand I probably did nearer 60! My bum is incredibly sore and I'm absolutely exhausted. Þingvellir is very interesting from a geological and historical viewpoint, so I want to spend some time here tomorrow on the way out.
It is raining and I'm summoning the enthusiasm to clean Trangia pans. All I want to do is sleep though. Today was too much. Too much, too soon, and especially on top of flying and having no sleep. The thought of bigger things is really daunting. The route here was one of the easiest on my planned routes A, B and C. I think plan D might be beginning to formulate: shorter stages and easy roads. Maybe I will feel better with a long sleep behind me.
About 12 hours sleep and I'm feeling a lot better. I am still unsure whether route B is feasible, however.
Here, at Þingvellir, the campground (I think that means it's free as opposed to a "site") [actually it wasn't free!] is situated on a sort of sunken plain between two sets of fault lines. The faults are part of the mid-Atlantic rift, which runs through Iceland's middle.
The fissures at Þingvellir
There's a lot of information on Þingvellir in the Lonely Planet guide. It was used as a meeting place for Iceland's leaders for many years. Apparently they all used to sit among the nooks and crannies in the fissures. I photographed one yesterday, on my way here, only to discover many more larger ones. I hope there will be lots more photos on the route out through Þingvellir and across the head of the lake.
Another thing to note are the birds that make a strange beating sound (I assume with their wings) as they swoop past, catching flies. The flies need catching because there are loads of them. They swarm around your head and get in your eyes, ears and nose. Although it is a pleasant morning, I am sitting in the tent to escape them.
Another long day on the bike. I left Þingvellir at 10.00am and arrived at Geysir at 5.00pm. I had an hour for lunch, most of which was spent asleep by the side of the road.
The fissures at Þingvellir were worth the slight detour. The area around the waterfall looked excellent for climbing, but (I am pleased to say) the boardwalks made it fairly clear that no climbing, or even walking off the boards, was allowed. Consequently the area had a wealth of wild flowers and grasses.
From Þingvellir it was a long ride up and over the hill to join the main road at Laugavagin. You would have thought that the rest would be easy, but from there was a 25km ride into a persistent head-wind. It was pretty tough. In order of pain, I noted: bum, hands (strangely), legs, then arms. When I stopped, I realised my back should be added to the list.
Geysir is interesting. There are lots of hot springs and mud pools bubbling away, and one good "geysir". I hope my photos show it. The weather has been good all day apart from the wind. It will be good to have the wind behind me, but I wonder if that ever happens!
Got it!
Plan B is definitely off now. It involves distances that are too great and very rough tracks. The "roads" I had today often deteriorated into very rutted, pot-holed tracks which made the bum pain much worse!
I have made two more plans, D and E. The former is a relatively short route back to Reykjavik that would see me there by Sunday, leaving 3 days for seeing the city and doing a "tourist" thing such as a boat ride (I'm not sure there are any, though) or maybe a trip to the Blue Lagoon. Better would be a flight to Akureyri in the north, but the would undoubtedly be rather expensive.
Plan E is a longer cycling route encompassing over 300km (I've done 110 so far and D is 200). The good thing about E is that it would get me near enough to Hekla for a view and photograph (weather permitting). The bad things are it would not get me back to Reykhavik until Wednesday morning at the earliest, leaving no time to see the capital; also there would be no rests from cycling, and I will run out of food unless I can find somewhere selling vegetables or tins. With both routes the next stage is to Fludir, so at least tomorrow is planned, albeit another 50km in the saddle!
Peter Pan Honey Roast Peanut Butter! It sounded good in the shop, and even tasted good for the first couple of slices of bread. The trouble is, I am eating it for both breakfast and lunch, and it now makes me feel sick. I had hoped to find an alternative lunch option here in the petrol station cafe and shop, but I have only found paprika crisps and Mars bars. They will have to do. At least I now have coffee for breakfast, which I forgot to buy in Reykjavik.
The geysirs (I've realised, I've forgotten how to spell the English version!) and pools are steaming more profusely now as the air is cooling down. It is 10.00pm now and the cafe is closing, so I think I will go to bed. I will have no trouble with 10 hours sleep.
With the boldness of a new day, and with good weather, I have created plan F. It has the benefit of getting me to see Hekla, but without the time of plan E. The concern is that it requires using an unpaved track that crosses 3 rivers, and involves spending 2 nights in the middle of nowhere! I will test the radio first. I may opt for plan D if either the weather deteriorates or my body is suffering too much at the decision time: halfway through today's ride.
The lack of an entry for yesterday evening is telling: It has been a truly momentous couple of days.
Gulfoss
The ride to Gulfoss was pleasant and gave me my first views of an Iceland icecap, Langjökull. Lots of photos ensued. The falls at Gulfoss were eqully impressive. From there I headed south on what should have been a reasonable road, but was actually little more than a farm track. This caused my first bike problem, a minor issue of a lost nut from the pannier rack. The decision time saw me determined to head over the mountain track across Geldingafell. The route up to the track was rough enough, but the track itself was something else. The first problem was the flies. I countered the swarming into and around facial orifices by wearing a balaclava and sunglasses, but they were a real nuisance.
Full facial fly protection
I was determined to cross the 3 rivers marked on my map before camping. The first was little more than a stream. The second was larger but fairly easy and I was still able to push the bike across. The third was formidable and required 3 crossings: carrying the bike, then back, and finally carrying the panniers. I mistakedly thought that was my 3! After only a short distance the track re-crossed the same river (another 3-stage affair, with water as high as the tops of my thighs).
By now it was raining heavily, I was very tired and there was nowhere to camp. The land consisted of either rubble or bog. I pressed on. A couple more smaller streams had to be crossed, but there was still nowhere to camp. The rain was bad and I was soaked from head to toe. Finally I arrived at an area recognisable on the map. There was another big river crossing and then I decided to camp, on what can only be described as cinders, on the other side.
Everything was soaked. It was 10.00pm I think, and I had started 12 hours earlier. I shivered in my wet sleeping bag, wished I was anywhere else but there and wondered if I had made a BIG mistake!
And the track goes on...
By midnight the wind had picked up and I feared the tent would be blown away as the pegs were held by very little, just a coarse, black sand. After another couple of hours of fitfull sleep, I woke again to find the wind worse but the tent still standing. The sleep must have done some good for I had the sense to change into my thermal top, under my fleece. After that I slept some more and woke at 4.00am with sun on the tent. Blissfully the weather had improved.
After a quick coffee (and the rest of the river water boiled to provide drinking water) I packed up, put on soaking wet clothes and continued my "ride". I think no more than 50% of the distance was spent riding as the slopes and boulders were just too big. I was also concerned about a 1 inch split in my back tyre. If that got worse, or another sharp rock did the same, I could be left with no transport! [I neglected to carry a spare tyre; a foolish decision!]
The total distance across the track was about 45km. I had done about 25 the previous day (on top of 32 to get to the start of the track from Geysir). With an increasingly warming sun and a breeze I soon started to dry off. I began to feel more confident. Then came Fossa!
Fossa
Fossa is a big river. Seeing it for the first time was frightening. The crossing point is marked with sticks, but it is just below a waterfall and the current looks very strong. Fortunately the water is not too deep, so provided I kept concentrating it wasn't too bad. All this, of course, whilst carrying a 20kg bike on my shoulders, or 12kg in two panniers. By the time I reached the far side for the final time, my feet were freezing. After this, the track became easier and four hours after setting out at 6.00am, I made it to the "main" road. What a relief. I never want to do that again.
From the end of the track I headed north, into the wind, until I turned off to go south past Hekla. I had had views of the volcano from after crossing Fossa, so the trip across had, at least, been worthwhile. The road south was only a mud road, but bliss compared with the track. With a tail-wind I was able to pick up a good speed, and it only took about 3 hours to reach the campsite at Leirubakki. Thus I had saved a day on my estimates.
Hekla
The campsite also has a hotel with showers etc. that are free to be used by campers (all for 450Kr = £3). As I lay in a "hot-pot" (basically an outside hot bath) I was stunned by the contrast with the previous day.
I have now slept, showered and eaten, and I am contemplating being sociable. The owners of the site were overwhelmingly hospitable upon my arrival; they provided fresh coffee and freshly baked cookies. I also want to talk to the Canadian chap. I met him first on the route from Þingvellir to Geysir. He is escorting a small party of cyclists around. I saw him again at Gulfoss yesterday, and was amazed to find him here at Leirubakki. I must find out his name.
More things to note: I have a sore throat. I don't know why - the river water was boiled well enough. Also my hands are a big problem. I cannot use my ring and little fingers of each hand and the ring fingers won't fully open without "manual" intervention. My middle and index fingers are also very weak so that any dextrous activity is incredibly difficult. I don't know whether the cause is vibration or "gripping" but it is begining to worry me. I am now quite keen to get back to Reykjavik and just do some "normal" tourist things, but that still requires 3 or 4 days cycling. I hope the hands survive.
I have been looking at the Lonely Planet guidebook and my intention of doing Ægissda, Selfoss, Hyeradullir, Reykjavik might be better adjusted to Ægissda, Hveragerdi, Reykjavik with a two-night stay at Hveragerdi. Selfoss is (by Lonely Planet's account) quite dull, whereas Hveragerdi is a nice town with lots of walking opportunities in a geothermal area to the north. This means longer rides (of 60km or so) to Hveragerdi and to Reykjavik, but with a gentle day today and a day off from cycling on Sunday this should be OK.
I found Gordie in the hotel lounge last night. He is guiding for a company called Freewheeling Adventures, based in Nova Scotia.
My sore throat is improving - I don't know what that was all about. My hands are still disfunctional though. It is also time to find some suncream for my bright, red nose!
I am already at today's destination, Hella. It was an easy ride of 47km, mostly downhill or flat, and mostly with a tailwind. I spent just 3 hours on the road, so hopefully my hands an bum will benefit. Now it is time for coffee and cookies!
Þorsmork
There was nothing new to see on today's ride, but I got a couple of pictures of the Þorsmork mountains. I could also see across towards Geysir with the icecap behind it. It seems a shame to have left the interior behind. I am now back on the main road. The traffic is obviously busier, but still only a few cars in each direction every minute.
Now to enjoy civilised tourism in Iceland. The beer is pricey, but at least I can't drink much anyway!
It will be a long ride today: 62km to Hveragerdi. I hope the wind will be behind me. It is very light at the moment, so I can't tell. This morning's great decision is whether to wear shorts or not. Oh, and whether to buy suncream. On the whole I think the weather is turning but the sun is out so my ears and nose may require protection. Isn't it great to have such simple concerns!
Shorts and suncream required, but it will be a headwind!
I think I may have overestimated today's route. Maybe it was only 57km. Despite this most of it was into a headwind so it was very hard work. I hate having to pedal hard to go downhill!
Hveragerdi is a grave disappointment. It appears to be mostly residential with a few greenhouses dotted around. Anywhere without a building on it will soon have one as there is construction taking place everywhere. The campsite comprises a field (next to a building site, obviously) with one poor quality toilet. The thought of spending one night there was not appealing, let alone my planned two, so I am at the youth hostel (1600Kr a night!)
I think my plan will be changing once again. I don't want to pay another 1600Kr (£11) tomorrow, so I may just continue back to Reykjavik (and hope that the campsite there is more agreeable!) This will leave me with 3 days in Reykjavik. I had already planned one day in the city and hopefully a day in Akureyri (if I can afford the flight). With 3 days to choose from I should be able to pick a good day for the flight and get a good view of the rest of Iceland from the air.
I am not relishing the thought of another day on the bike tomorrow, but apart from the first big hill out of Hveragerdi and the dual carriageway entering Reykjavik, it should be a reasonably easy ride (wind-depending, of course.) I will be pleased to have completed the cycling, though. Hopefully my hands will then recover before bike-dismantling day (Thursday).
I am at Reykjavik campsite. No more cycling planned (apart from to the airport bus) and I am pleased to have completed 388km (nearly 250 miles) in 7 days. Today's ride was a bit cold and wet, but quite interesting as it passed through the hills and lava fields around Svinahraun.
The campsite here is pretty good. I have locked my bike to a tree, and will just have to hope that my belongings will be safe for 3 days in the tent.
[That is the end of my short cycling diary. I spent a relaxing few days in Reykjavik. I went whale-watching on the HuniII and managed to afford a flight to Akureyri. Unfortunately the weather for the flight was not too good, and I didn't get to see as much as I wanted. In fact the weather deteriorated to fairly persistent rain for most of my time in Reykjavik. It seemed as though I was incredibly lucky with the weather during my week of cycling.]
Huni II